Cheyletiella Mites (aka Walking Dandruff)

Cheyletiella Mites (aka Walking Dandruff)

Cheyletiella Mites (aka Walking Dandruff)Cheyletiella was first diagnosed in 1878 in a rabbit. The first dog case appeared in Austria. Since that time, there have been diagnoses in: badgers, foxes, cats, dogs and even people. It’s also believed that some wild animals may have it but they’re harder to test, of course. There are different types of Cheyletiella: dogs have yasguri; cats have blakei and rabbits have parasitivorax types. All species can infect people as Cheyletosis. One of the first theories was that mites actually were regarded as predators of various other ectoparasites including lice, fleas and flies. However, now the main belief is that Cheyletiella is an actual rabbit, cat and dog parasite. One publish report claims most domestic rabbits aren’t symptomatic but do carry this mite. These mites are very contagious via direct physical contact. They don’t burrow. Instead, they directly feed on the layer of keratin on the epidermis. These mites are big and measure 466-500 microns by 300 microns wide. Some can even be seen by the naked eye. They have eight legs and heavy, curved palpal claws. These mites are yellow and would stand out easily. The mite eggs measure 190 to 260 microns in length, are sometimes in an embryonic state and are connected to hairs via strands that are cocoon-like in nature. Often wrongly identified as the eggs of hookworms, they’re three times bigger. Their life cycle lasts 21 days and has five separate stages: egg, pre-larva, larva, first-stage nymph, second-stage nymph and adult. After an animal is exposed, infestation will take anywhere from three to five weeks. The female of the species can live in the host’s environment for 10 days. Puppies are more susceptible to these mites. Due to the highly contagious nature of the Cheyletiella mites, be very careful when choosing a groomer or kennels where your pet would mingle with other dogs. It’s also critical to check all pets in case any are asymptomatic carriers of the mites. This walking dandruff easily affects dogs of all ages, sizes, breeds and genders. It’s often referred to as a zoonotic condition. This means the mites can move from your affected pets to you and others around you. Cheyletiellosis causes various symptoms in humans including: intensely itchy red bumps on the skin (aka papules) that mainly appear on the arms, butt, abdomen and body. Once your dog is treated and recovers, then you’ll get better. Because flea-controlling pesticides are very commonly used today, this dandruff issue is much less common. The mites are usually killed by the pesticides. If your Pomeranian appears to have persistent areas of dandruff, especially under the tail and on the ears, have your veterinarian do skin scrapings to test and diagnose the cause of the problem. Copyright Pomeranian.org. All Rights Reserved.

How to Clip Your Pomeranian’s Nails

How to Clip Your Pomeranian’s Nails

clipping pomeranian's toenailsOne vital part of your overall Pomeranian’s care is the clipping of his nails. How often you do this will vary depending on if he’s an outdoor or indoor Pomeranian. If he spends most of his time outside, his claws will wear down naturally on rough surfaces and so they won’t need clipping as often. If he’s inside mostly, then once or twice a month is how often his nails will need to be trimmed.

The best way to trim nails

This isn’t a job you should rush. Take your time and ensure you don’t miss a single toe. Use treats to keep him happy so he’ll associate trimming with yummy treats and so it won’t be an unpleasant experience. Prep your Pom first. Pat his paws and throw in a tummy rub so he gets used to you touching his paws. This will only make the job easier for you both.

Trimming Your Pomeranian’s Nails While Alone

Cutting your dog’s nails can be easy or extremely difficult, particularly if you’re new to this task. Ask your vet to do it if you can’t manage it yourself and/or you’re nervous about hurting him. The vet may let you watch so you can learn.

What is the quick?

clipping pomeranian's toenailsIf you look at your own finger nails, you’ll see a pink part and that’s the quick in people AND in dogs. If cut, the blood vessels can hurt and will often start bleeding. It’s essential that you have plenty of light so you avoid doing this. Only cut small pieces of nail at a time while moving the clipper in a parallel motion to help prevent accidentally cutting the quick. Take extra precautions if his nails are black as it will be much harder to find the quick.

The colour of his nails will depend on what colour his adjacent skin is. Light coloured claws are simpler to cut than the darker coloured ones because you can see the quick much more easily. You should cut your pet’s nails to within 2 mm of his quick. Before clipping toenails identify the “quick” in each toenail. The quick is easy to see on light coloured toenails, but very difficult to locate on dark coloured toenails. The quick is actually a blood vessel that flows through the middle of each toenail. This blood vessel will grow down near the end of the toenail if nails are not trimmed. With regular trimming the quick will recede, making the task of toenail clipping much simpler.

pomeranians toenailsThe best time to clip toenails is just after the Pomeranian’s bath, as the warm water will soften the nails. If using a grinder trim nails before bathing. If the nail is a dark colour and the quick can’t easily be seen, make numerous cuts starting at the claw’s tip until you can see the grey or pink oval on the nail’s surface. Always use trimmers that are sharp and clean because they’ll cause much less trouble. The rear claws are usually shorter and need less cutting than the front ones. To finish off, use a file to smooth the surface. Always have the trimmer blade facing you and not your pet so you don’t cut into the quick. If you do cut it, your dog will suffer pain and bleeding so take good care. If you do cause bleeding, it will usually stop after a couple of minutes.

The inner side of your pet’s paw is where the dew claw is located and it’s connected to his leg by some loose skin. The dew claw never touches the ground but may grow long enough that it grows into the toe-pad. You can bend it away from your pet’s leg so you can use a guillotine trimmer on the tip. Over time, you’ll get more comfortable with clipping the nails of your dog. However, if you don’t want to, or can’t do the job, there are lots of professional groomers or vets available.

Tips for safely cutting and trimming your pet’s nails:

pomeranian's dewclawKeep calm. Both you and your dog should remain calm because he’ll sense how you feel and will respond the same way. Start by gently rubbing his paws and giving him a tummy rub. Light and weather. Always have plenty of light when you clip your dog’s nails so you can get a clear view of what you’re doing. If possible, do it outside so he has extra room to relax.

If he’s anxious, it won’t be an easy job because he’s likely to squirm and whine and that can cause an accident. If the weather prevents you from doing it outside, choose a bright room in your house and, if it’s hot, use a fan to help keep you both cool.

Grip. When you hold your dog’s paw, don’t grip it too loosely or you may release your hold. Conversely, don’t hold it too tight as it may cause discomfort to your beloved pet.

Fur away. Pull his fur out of the way while you’re working on your dog’s nails. If necessary, trim the hair with a hair trimmer, not the nail clipper as it will dull the clipper blades. Begin to clip. Be gentle when clipping and place the blade in a parallel position, with the blade facing you, to avoid cutting the quick or causing any bleeding. If you do cut it, your dog will feel pain and some bleeding but it will usually stop after a couple of minutes.

The dew claw on your dog’s front paws might need to be trimmed. This is often known as a grooming nail and is related to your pet’s hygiene.

Treats are useful for training and comforting. Keep a few treats within easy reach because you may damage one or more nails, causing your beloved pet to suffer a traumatic experience. You need to maintain your dog’s understanding that clipping is a positive experience so give him treats after you have trimmed his nails and also during the treatment if necessary to settle him down.

Trimming your Pomeranian’s nails while alone. If you’re on your own and are trying to trim your Pom’s nails, he’ll most likely make a fuss, especially in the early stages.  Cutting your dog’s nails can be easy or extremely difficult, particularly if you’re new to this task. Ask your vet to do it if you can’t manage it yourself and/or you’re nervous about hurting him. The vet may let you watch so you can learn.

What if his nails get too long?

why you should trim your Pomeranian's toenails

  • His nails may bleed, break or split.
  • They can tear or get caught.
  • They’ll curl and this may cause your pet to have discomfort when walking because it adds more pressure to his toes, often to the extent that they pierce his paw, which then causes pain and infection.

Use the right tools.

If you’re going to trim your pet’s nails, you must have the right tools. Generally you’ll only need trimming scissors. There are three types of these scissors: pliers, scissors and guillotine. Your choice will vary depending on the type of nails your Pom has. Once you finish trimming, use a metal file to smooth all rough edges. You can use styptic powder if you accidentally cut your pet’s quick.Dog hair clippers can easily cost $100-$200, whereas the best nail clippers can be bought for under $30. Don’t go cheap and buy a $4 tool because it will easily break your dog’s nails instead of doing sharp straight incisions and you’ll end up spending more on a good tool you should have bought in the first place.

The Best Five Nail Clippers and Grinders for Dogs.

Here are reviews of the top five tools for your dog’s nails. 

1. OmegaPet Nail Clippers are the best plier-style clippers. Dog Nail Clippers and Trimmer – Toenail Clippers with Quick Safety Guard to Prevent Overcutting – Dog Nail Trimmer to Smooth Out Nails – Painless Grooming for Large Breed DogsOver one thousand pet owners made the time and effort to write reviews. The blue clippers are ideal if you have a low budget and are suitable for medium to large breeds. The smaller pink clippers are best for toy dog breeds and cats. The price is affordable, and the tool comes with a quick guard to stop you from cutting it. You’ll also receive a nail trimmer for that final polish. The blades are very sharp for easy cutting through even the thickest of nails. The handles have an ergonomic shape designed to prevent fatigue in your hand if the grooming takes a while. This product is such good quality that it comes with a lifetime warranty.

2. The best scissor-style clippers are the Expert Dog Nail Clippers   with the big handles). Expert Dog Nail Clipper | Ultra Sharp Stainless Steel Pet Trimmer with Rotatable Safety Guard and Lock | Safe Professional Home Grooming for Cats and Dogs of Any Breed | Nail File Included | 912If you’re grooming any small animals including puppies and cats, ergonomics is an essential aspect of any tool you will need to use. Standard size tools don’t usually give you the ideal grip so you can do the nail trimming properly. Ebelyn found a great solution by making the handles huge in size so it’s much easier to do the job. Ebelyn nail clippers are cheap (under $10) but you can only use them for small dogs as they haven’t yet been adapted for the thicker nails of medium to large dogs. The tip and blades are rounded as they have been specifically designed to trim dog nails, unlike generic tools you buy for multiple jobs, one of which may be to cut your dog’s nails. They won’t do a satisfactory job. They’re simple to use because everyone knows how to operate scissors safely. However, when doing the final precision work, you need either a nail file or a grinder.

3. Resco original professional pet guillotine nail clippers.Resco Original Deluxe Dog, Cat, and Pet Nail/Claw Clippers. Best USA-Made Trimmer, More Colors & Sizes Resco is an American iconic name in the world of deluxe pet, cat and dog nail clippers and they come in more sizes and colors than tools from their competitors. They opened their doors 80 years ago with their first product – the guillotine nail clippers – and Resco has stood proudly as an industry leader since then, with their range of tools for pets of every size and shape. The durable mini guillotines are available in large, regular and tiny and the chrome plating comes in multiple colors. Blades are cheap to replace but should last a very long time and all products come with lifetime warranties. At just over $10, it’s money well spent.

4. The Dremel nail grinder is the best grinder for your dog’s nails. Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming ToolThe cost of electric nail grinders is generally double that of manual tools but the use and end result of your dog’s nails is very positive. Grinders are best suited for medium to large dogs. If your dog is small, usage of a grinder is overkill. It’s made from high-density plastic and is supported by an outstanding engineering team you would expect from a world-class brand such as Dremel. This Dremel grinder is the commonly used tool of all nail grinders. However, it IS expensive if you only consider the cost. It’s worth every cent if you need a grinder for your dog’s nails. It has two speed settings: 6500 and 13000 RPM, enabling you to adapt to your pet’s level of stress and the time and amount of work needed. The grinder is cordless and light in weight, removing constraints such as the cord, so it’s easier to move. One factor to consider is that it will make noise and if your dog is very skittish, it may not be a suitable tool to use. You’ll need sanding bands and 60-grit drums so you can work gently while trimming your dog’s nails. A 4.8 volt battery has enough power to create smooth cuts, but won’t go so fast that his nails become damaged. The Dremel grinder has minimal down sides which is great news if you’re new to using such a tool. They’re less dangerous and intrusive but the price is higher.

5. FURminator is a company most commonly known for their de-shedding brush, but they also offer a high quality, low-priced, pet nail grinder.FURminator Nail Grinder It provides a smooth trim, thanks to its powerful rotary motor, and it also has a LED light, enabling you to see exactly what you’re doing at all times. The FURminator comes with batteries and grinding bands and is a comfortable to use, lightweight tool. It only has a single speed so if your focus is mainly on money, this is your ideal choice. Otherwise, spend an extra $10 and buy the Dremel.

To help you choose the best tools for your needs, here’s a breakdown of each one.

Grinders. The majority of dog owners think a grinder would be a better tool for clipping dog nails and avoiding any accidents that may cause bleeding. Some grinders are battery-powered and others are powered. It’s better to use a cordless option if you’re new to nail cutting because there are no cord to hinder your best efforts. A grinder is similar to a nail file but specially designed for dog nails. Most Pomeranians hate having toenails clipped and an alternative method of trimming toenails is to use a small grinder. Care must be taken when using this method, please wrap your Pomeranian tightly in a blanket or towel to prevent the Pomeranian’s coat being caught in the grinder

Scissor-like clippers. This type is extremely popular due to its simple design and plenty of available places to buy them from. These clippers resemble scissors except for the addition of a notch on the blade’s tip, enabling it to cut dog nails.

These nail clippers are:

• Perfect for smaller dogs due to their cutting power and size.

 • Simple to hold. Constructed from a lightweight material, a beginner can use them and clip nails like a professional. Heavier types may cause your hand to feel fatigued.

• Easy to buy. Being cheap, you can purchase them from most pet shops and this is extra handy because you can replace blades or other parts when necessary.

Plier-style clippers. These are designed for beginners, have simple features, are easy to use and can be bought from most pet shops. They look like pliers and you get a great view of your dog’s nails as you remove the excess amounts. Most plier-style clippers have a guard so there’s no feat of accidentally cutting you pet’s quick. These are very cheap but are still more expensive than the scissor-like clippers. It’s good to use these clippers if: You’re a novice when it comes to cutting a dog’s nails. The designed head of the clipper gives you clear line of sight to the nail. Your pet has thick nails. The plier-style nail clipper applies enough force to handle the job. 

Guillotine-style clippers. This cutting mechanism looks a lot like groomers or nail cutters people use on themselves. The guillotine is similar in concept to the blade that cuts/slices vegetables. There are two blades that shut to allow you to cut the nail by simply squeezing the clipper handle.

This kind of clipper is great for:

• Dogs with arthritis. If your dog has pain in his paw or hand, this tool is perfect because its clipping mechanism is so smooth and simple to use.

• Dogs with thin or soft nails. If you use this tool on thick nails, the clipper may break so avoid using it on thick nails. However, there are several of these type of clippers that allow you to cut thick nails.

• Dog grooming. It’s not wise to use these clippers unless you’re experienced at trimming your dog’s nails because the blade design blocks your sight of the quick and so you may cut it.

Electric grinders. A grinder can be utilized specifically to care for your dog’s nails because it acts like a nail file or sandpaper. The trimming process is slower but safer but be aware that a grinder can get hot so you should only do a second of trimming at a time to avoid causing your dog any problems.

An electric grinder is useful when:

• You want a gentle approach that has no chance of cutting the quick or any other nail accidents.

• You want your dog’s nails to have a smooth finish that’s better than the job manual clippers can do. It also reduces the possibility of him getting nails stuck in your furniture or clothing fabrics.

• Your dog has black nails because they make it tougher to see the quick so a grinder greatly reduces the risk of touching the all-important quick.

• Inexperienced owners prefer a grinder as they don’t actually do any cutting.

Is your Pomeranian just an animal or a loved member of the household? How much is too much when it comes to the correct care of your Pom? Only you can decide.

 

Copyright Pomeranian.org. All Rights Reserved. For complete Pomeranian Grooming information refer to the Pomeranian Grooming Guide.

Puppy Proofing Your Home

  pomeranian puppy Any time you adopt a puppy you need to puppy proof your home as you would when you have a toddler. When it’s time to bring your new Pomeranian home please remember to take some precautions to create a safe environment for him. Just because he or she is so tiny and cute doesn’t mean he won’t be curious about everything in sight. A look in those mischievous eyes will be your first clue. Most puppies love to chew, especially when they are teething, so keep chewable treasures out of reach. Here are a few suggestions for you: Get down on your hands and knees or at least grab a flashlight and look around for small things such as rubber bands, children’s toys, or string Do the best you can to hide electrical cords. This isn’t always easy, but in some cases you can hide them under carpets and rugs Don’t leave any “people food” within your dog’s reach Keep all chemicals in cupboards and make sure to close the doors after you take something out or put something back Don’t forget to stow waste-baskets and garbage out of sight and reach Make periodic checks of all of your rooms. Sometimes people forget to put potentially dangerous things away or they may leave doors open that should be closed Leave your purses, briefcases, backpacks and similar items up high or locked up Look up information on your indoor and outdoor plants and flowers. Some are poisonous for PomeraniansPuppy Proofing Your Home If you have cat litter boxes in your home, keep it safely away from your pup If you have collections or memorabilia you will want to make sure they are on shelves or in cabinets out of your Pomeranian’s reach Distract your Pomeranian from being interested in your personal items by providing toys appropriate to his size and age. If you give him things to chew on right from the beginning, you are less apt to find things like your shoes and belts targets for his little teeth. For complete and detailed Pomeranian information, Feeding your new Pomeranian puppy, How to read dog food labels,toilet and crate training your Pomeranian, how to choose the right Pomeranian puppy for your family, Socializing your Pomeranian Puppy. Download the Pomeranian Book by Pomeranian Breed Authority Denise Leo.

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Train your Pomeranian. Top Training Tips and Secrets

Pomeranian Puppy Care

Pomeranian Puppy Care

pomeranian puppies  

FEEDING:

Pomeranian Puppies should be fed at least 3 times per day. Pomeranians until they are 6 months of age should be fed 3 times daily. I also leave dry puppy food and water available 24/7. A quality puppy dry food can be made available to the Pomeranian puppy at all times. Pomeranian Babies are very small and can suffer from Hypoglycemia if they do not eat small amounts of food often. Just think about the amount of energy a Pomeranian puppy uses in relation to it’s tiny size and ability to quickly utilize the food eaten. A small Pomeranian Puppy will need to produce enough energy to run around and play . Enough nutrients must be also supplied in the diet to provide for growth. A quality diet must be fed, or your Pomeranian’s health and growth will suffer . The correct feeding of a Pomeranian Baby is to feed a little quality food often. The important words in relation to your Pomeranian Puppy’s food are QUALITY, LITTLE and OFTEN. Look for a dry food that is suitable for toy breeds of dogs and purchase the puppy variety. The Pomeranian Puppy should receive 3 meals daily of a small amount of either canned puppy food or minced meat. The Following are examples of the diet I use at Dochlaggie for my Pomeranians Puppies. MORNING FEED: Canned Pal Puppy Food and pets own milk ( available at your local supermarket in Australia ). MIDDAY: a small bowl of uncooked mince (human quality) and pets own milk/ Or Canned pal puppy food & puppy milk TEA TIME: Finely chopped cooked chicken (no bones) and pets own milk/ Or finely chopped roast lamb or beef & puppy milk. Or raw chicken mince& puppy milk /Or Canned pal puppy food & puppy milk. Clean Water , placed in a shallow bowl MUST be available at all times. Never feed your Pomeranian puppy cooked bones. Caution should be used when feeding any food that is minced or chopped. Please ensure that the food is minced or chopped very, very fine as Pomeranians can easily choke on largish pieces of meat. Your breeder will provide a diet sheet for your puppy. It is always recommended that new Pomeranian owners should make changes to Pomeranian Puppies’ diet gradually over a period of time. Do not make any changes to the diet for a few days. The stress of leaving the Pomeranian Puppy’s mother and siblings might be traumatic for the Pomeranian baby, without added stress from changes to diet. Changes to the water your Puppy is drinking can also cause an upset a Pomeranian’s tummy, using bottled water for your Pomeranian puppy is recommended. I do not recommend feeding adult Pomeranians solely commercial dog food. At Dochlaggie, the amount of dry food the Adult Pomeranians eat is limited, feeding mainly a raw meat diet with a small amount of premium dry dog food added for balance and cooked vegetables.

NEW HOME TRANSITION :

When you arrive home with your new Pomeranian Puppy, he or she may be quite nervous being in a new environment , away from his loving Mother and litter mates. During these first few days stress may affect some Pomeranians pups considerably. For the first few days ensure that baby is eating his food. Too much excitement can cause exhaustion in a young Pomeranian Puppy. Resist the temptation to show off your new Pomeranian Puppy. Your puppy is a baby. What do babies spend most of the day doing? Sleeping. So please ensure that your new baby Pomeranian has adequate sleep. Pomeranian Puppies sleep a lot. If you already have other pets, quietly introduce the new Pomeranian Puppy to the other pets. Do not introduce at meal times. Purchase new toys for your other pets and make as much fuss of your other pets as you are doing with your new addition.

HOUSETRAINING YOUR PUPPY:

Puppies have a natural instinct to be clean. The biggest mistake new Pomeranian Puppy owners can make is when they bring the new Pomeranian Puppy home. Allowing the Puppy free run of the Home. Confine your new Pomeranian baby until he/she is completely housetrained when not under supervision. I keep the babies confined in a play pen with newspapers at one end together with a modified kitty litter tray. I place the puppy’s bed and feed and water bowls are at the other end. Always take baby to your preferred potty spot after feeds and after a sleep. For more details on house training your new baby Pomeranian see the section on Toilet Training.

WORMING :

Your Pomeranian puppy should have been wormed at 2, 4, 6 & 8 weeks of age . Please ask your vet for advice on future worming and products to use.

IMMUNISATION:

Your Pomeranian puppy should have been Vet Checked and Vaccinated at 6 weeks of age .You should receive a Vaccination Certificate, signed by the Breeder’s veterinarian . The Vaccination card will list the vaccination your Pomeranian Puppy has been given.This is an intermediate vaccination until your pup receives its full booster vaccination at 12-16 weeks of age. Until the full booster at 12-16 weeks please keep your puppy at home and away from public places because of the chance of contracting one of the deadly canine diseases such as Parvo, Distemper and Hepatitis.

HEARTWORM:

Ask the Breeder of your Pomeranian puppy about heart worm preventative medication.

MICROCHIP:

A good Pomeranian Breeder will ensure that all puppies are micro chipped with an iso approved micro chip prior to sale .I would not recommend purchase any Pomeranian Puppy unless the Puppy is micro chipped. The Breeder will either give you the paperwork for the Microchip or transfer the Pomeranian Puppies’ details with the Microchip registry. You will need to ensure that you are listed as the Registered owner of the Pomeranian Puppy with the Microchip registry. Keep your contact details with Microchip registry up to date.

REGISTRATION AND PEDIGREE:

If your Pomeranian puppy has been purchased from a reputable registered Breeder your Pomeranian Puppy will be registered with your Kennel Club.Pet Pomeranian babies will possibly be Registered on Limited Registration. This means that your new Pomeranian is sold as a pet only and is not for Exhibition/Breeding or Export purposes. Ask about the Pomeranian Puppies’ registration status before purchase. Here in Australia, a Registered Breeder MUST register all puppies, so beware if the “Breeder” is trying to sell you an unregistered puppy.

DESEXING:

Your Pomeranian puppy should be desexed at approximately 6 months of age. At the same time I also recommend you ask your veterinarian to remove any retained baby teeth.

TEETH CARE:

Unless your Pomeranian’s teeth are cleaned on a regular basis, your Pomeranian will suffer from early tooth loss. I use a toothbrush (small soft human on) Never use human toothpaste. You can purchase “doggie” toothpaste from your local vet clinic. Start cleaning your puppy’s teeth at an early age so he /she will learn to accept this procedure as normal. Dirty teeth will cause early tooth loss and may also lead to many health problems. This care of your Pomeranian’s teeth will only take you a few minutes weekly . I do not recommend dog chews, pigs ears etc for small dogs like Pomeranians. These products are now processed in China and I am lead to believe that they are preserved in arsenic. I am not sure if this is correct but after all the dog deaths last year in the states from contaminated dog food from China, I do not want to risk my puppies health with these items. A large raw bone from your butcher is a much safer option.

GROOMING:

Pomeranian Puppies should be groomed from an early age so they learn to welcome all the attention. The double coat of the Pomeranian does not require as much attention as some of the other coated breeds but nevertheless he does require regular grooming,at least 2 or 3 times a week if not daily. Teach your baby from a young age to accept and enjoy being groomed .Start by laying puppy on his/her back on your lap, talk soothingly and brush, paying attention to areas that matt quickly like behind ears, armpits etc. Occasional bathing is recommended with a shampoo formulated for dogs. A tearless puppy shampoo is probably the best to use.Your vet will have suitable puppy shampoos available. Do not use talcum powder as a dry cleaning method to clean your Pomeranian.Talcum powder is very drying and has been known to cause respiratory problems in small puppies and allergies when a scented version of the powder is used. Think of the size of your puppy and the amount of powder that is used. A quick clean with a warm wet face washer is a much better option for the baby Pomeranian if you do not have time for a a full bath and dry. Never leave your Pomeranian wet. A human hairdryer may be used and it is actually a great idea to get your Pomeranian used to the noise of the hairdryer from a young age. Be very careful and use a low setting and aware of the heat of the dryer. Trimming of hair around the anus for cleanliness is recommended. When you stroke or pat your Pomeranian stroke the coat from the tail to the head as this will raise the dense coat. Toe nails should be kept as short as possible. Always check the dew claws on the front legs and check the back legs also, just in case your Pomeranian has back dew claws. The nails on these will need to be trimmed often. Trimming toenails is something that your puppy will dislike. Buy a pair of toenail clippers and start trimming the toenails when your Pomeranian is young. Only take a little bit off the nail every other week, so they don’t grow long and you wont make a mistake and cut into the quick and cause bleeding and upset the Puppy. Puppies with light colored nails are easier to trim as the quick is visible. By trimming a little every other week dark colored nails will not be a problem .

TOYS FOR YOUR POMERANIAN:

A Pomeranian loves his/her toys to play with. Certain toys are favorites. Caution must be used when allowing your Pomeranian to play some toys. My Pomeranians love the fur rats with the squeaker. I only allow puppies to play with these under strict supervision. A baby could manage to get the squeaker out of the toy and swallow this object or choke on the squeaker. Pieces of plastic from toys over time can be chewed off. I am always distrustful of plastic toys. Always check toys for small items that may prove dangerous for your Pomeranian Puppy.

LEAD TRAINING YOUR POMERANIAN PUPPY:

The Pomeranian is extremely intelligent and very easy to train, he is eager to please his owner. Pomeranians also excel at obedience training. Lead training your puppy is best started at 10 to 12 weeks of age. Start by using a very small collar or harness without the lead attached and coax the puppy to follow you. This is the time for tasty treats and titbits. Puppy will often scratch at the collar. Once the Pomeranian baby is used to following you with only the collar, then attach the lead. Collars on Pomeranians are not recommended. Collars can cause problems in the dense coat of a Pomeranian. A harness is a safer, kinder option to a collar and is only required for walking your Pomeranian. Your local Vet Clinic will often run puppy training classes . For complete and detailed Pomeranian information, Feeding your new Pomeranian puppy, How to read dog food labels. Home cooking for your Pomeranian. Feedng your Pomeranian for optimum health, toilet and crate training your Pomeranian, how to choose the right Pomeranian puppy for your family, Socializing your Pomeranian Puppy. Download the Pomeranian Book by Pomeranian Breed Authority Denise Leo. Copyright Denise Leo 1997-2016.All Rights Reserved. Breeder of Best in Show winning Champion Pomeranians Not to be reproduced in any form without written consent of the author.

Pomeranian Puppy Growth Chart

Pomeranian Puppy Growth Chart

Exactly how big will my Pomeranian grow? The size of your Pomeranian puppy as an adult depends on a variety of things.Your Pomeranian puppy’s genes play a very important role, so always observe the size of your puppy’s parents. Overfeeding young Pomeranian puppies can also cause unwanted growth spurts. Underfeeding is certainly not beneficial either. Both overfeeding and underfeeding can cause serious health issues for your Pomeranian puppy. Always discuss any feeding issues with your breeder. Your breeder will be able to advise you on the amount and type of food suitable for your Pomeranian puppy. It is possible to estimate your Pomeranian puppy’s adult weight by using our Pomeranian weight chart. How to use the Pomeranian Growth Chart: Convert your Pomeranian puppy weight to ounces. 16oz equals 1 pound NOTE: an example; 10 week old puppy current weighs 2.2 lbs conversion 16 X 2 + 2 = 34 ounces. If you need to convert your Pomeranian Puppys weight from metric to ounces prior to using our Pomeranian growth Chart : Click here to convert Next find puppy’s current age to the left then follow along until you find 34; Next follow to the bottom of that column estimated adult weight is 5lbs. When in doubt use 3 x weight at 8 weeks or 2 x weight at 12 weeks

pomeranian puppy pomeranian puppy adult pomeranian dog

 

Birth 2.5 oz. 2.75 oz. 3 oz. 3.5 oz. 4 oz. 4.25 oz. 4.5 oz. 5 oz. 5.5 oz.
1 week 4.50 5 5.5 6 7 7.5 8 9 9.5
2 weeks 6 6.5 7 8.5 10 11 12 13 13.5
3 weeks 7 8 8.5 10.5 13 14 15 16 17.5
4 weeks 8 9.5 10 12 14.5 16 18 20 21
5 weeks 9 11 11.5 13.5 16 18 20 22 24
6 weeks 10 12.5 13 15 17.5 20 23 24 27
7 weeks 11 12 14.5 17 19 22 25 27 30
8 weeks 12 13.5 16 19 21.5 24 27 29 32
9 weeks 13 15 18 22 23 26 30 33 35
10 weeks 14 16 20 24 25 28 33 36 38
11 weeks 15 17 21 26 28 31 36 39 42
12 weeks 16 18 22 28 32 35 40 43 45
13 weeks 17 20 24 30 34 36 42 45 48
14 weeks 18 22 26 32 36 39 44 47 51
15 weeks 19 23 28 34 38 42 46 51 55
16 weeks 20 25 30 36 40 44 49 54 59
17 weeks 21 26 31 38 42 46 51 57 62
18 weeks 22 28 33 39 44 48 54 60 65
19 weeks 23 29 34 40 45 50 56 62 67
20 weeks 24 30 35 41 46 52 58 64 70
21 weeks 25 31 36 42 48 54 60 66 72
22 weeks 25 32 37 43 48 56 62 68 74
23 weeks 26 33 38 44 50 57 64 70 76
24 weeks 26 33 39 45 51 58 65 71 78
25 weeks 27 34 40 46 52 59 66 72 79
26 weeks 27 34 40 47 53 60 67 73 80
18 Month 2 lbs 2.5 lbs 3 lbs 3.5 lbs 4 lbs 4.5  lbs 5 lbs 5.5 lbs 6 lbs

Puppy’s Vaccinations

puppy playingYour puppy loves playing with other puppies in any new place including the beach or park. He gets very excited when given the opportunities to do this. However, you need to be aware that there are numerous contagious diseases that exist inside your puppy’s community. Diseases including Parvovirus are very dangerous to puppies while they’re developing and growing. It’s essential that you keep your puppy safe and healthy before allowing him to go out and play in the real world. Being vaccinated is the smart way to protect your puppy. It exposes his immune system to a tiny amount of the agent that creates the disease (bacteria or virus) via an injection. These injections are weakened and not active so they’re not able to give your puppy the disease, as long as they’re administered properly. After a vaccination program, puppy’s immune system creates special cells and antibodies that “remember” the bacteria and viruses in the vaccine. When your puppy faces the actual disease, his immune system “remembers” the contents of the vaccine and destroys the infection. This immunity does wear off after a period of time so your puppy needs regular booster shots during the course of his life. A puppy vaccination regime Before allowing your puppy out into any public places, he needs a complete vaccine program to guard against the following serious diseases: Parvovirus a highly contagious viral gastroenteritis that causes severe vomiting and diarrhoea with some bleeding, loss of appetite and depression. If not treated, this virus can kill your puppy within 24 hours. Hepatitis can cause sudden death in your puppy. Adult dogs may have diarrhoea, fever, and weakness, acute abdominal pain because of an enlarged liver, bleeding and lost appetite.pomeranian puppy Distemper is extremely contagious and has symptoms including: pus discharge from the nose and eyes, depression, fever, loss of appetite and depression. In the most severe cases, his brain may become affected and he may have convulsions which may prove fatal. Parainfluenza Virus and Bordetella (Canine Cough). The cough is a hacking dry cough that ends in gagging and may last a couple of weeks. Both of these are very contagious, particularly in enclosed spaces. E.g. show rings and boarding kennels. The type, number and timing of vaccination programs will vary according to the clinic or hospital and the type and brand of vaccination that’s to be used. Puppies can socialise with others and go into public places after they have received the 16 week vaccination. However, you must check this time with your own vet to be safe. Parvovirus protection and puppy vaccination Early socialisation between 6 and 16 weeks should occur because it can have a major impact on his future behaviour as an adult. It’s essential to his long-term development that he does socialise early on. In a perfect world, you must expose your beloved puppy to everything he’ll face as an adult. Such things include: loud noises, loud people, noisy traffic, moving objects like lawn mowers and bicycles; surfaces like wooden floors and steps; other energetic puppies, friendly adult dogs, children, birds and people in uniforms or costumes. Copyright  www.pomeranian.org. All Rights Reserved.

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